Reclaiming Your Crown

February 2, 2020

Our hair acts as an integral part of our identity. Depending on the culture, hair style can signify a persons social status, political status, gender role, and more. According to the Dictionary of Symbolism

"Hair symbolizes physical strength and virility; the virtues and properties of a person are said to be concentrated in his hair and nails. It is a symbol of instinct, of female seduction and physical attraction. Baldness may suggest sterility. Hair flowing depicts freedom and looseness; the unwilling removal of hair may be a castration symbol. Carries the context of magical power; witches had their hair shaven off, as well as in the Bible, in which Samson loses all his power when his locks are stripped. Heavy relations to fertility and even love (the quantity is related to love-potential). It can be thought of as the external soul.

"Hair on differing parts of the body infers different meanings as well: hair of the head - spiritual powers, hair of the body - irrational powers. In addition, different forms of hair also carry differing connotations: loose hair - usually kept by a woman suspected of adultery, disheveled hair - a conventional sign of bereavement, long hair - is usually associated with a woman, but can mean penitence in a man, curly hair - an artist, speaker of many languages. Hair color carries symbols too: golden - related to sun symbolism, white - eternity, red - demoniacal, Satanic, violet - associated with goddesses, brown/black - chthonic forces, green - having to do with the sea, water."

Having a "bad hair day" can hurt your self esteem, and start the self-doubt spiral. When we look good we feel good.

As a black woman it is especially important for me to note that there is no "good hair". We all have different hair textures, curl patterns, porosities and more; and we should each love and respect our hair in it's natural state. The first step to loving your hair is caring for your hair. There is no "good hair" only healthy hair.

As humans we come in multiple varieties and the hair care needs of one person are not necessarily going to be the hair care needs of another. It is important to take time to understand your hair so that you can learn how it wants and needs to be treated.

Defining your Hair Type

There are different classifications for hair based on properties like curl pattern, ability to absorb product, and density.

Curl Pattern

There are four main types of hair that are then broken down into 3 sub categories. 1-4 defines whether it is straight, wavy, curly or coily (in that order). It is then given a letter a-c based on the diameter or width of the pattern.

Type 1 - Straight like that

The first type of hair is straight hair. Type one hair holds shine well but can get very oily. Since the hair is straight oils from the scalp easily move down the shaft. Type 1a is flat and has very little body (doesn't hold curl well), Type 1b is has more body and bends most women with straight hair fall into this category, Type 1c is straight but has alot of body (individual strands tend to be coarse). Type one hair must be washed the most often to avoid the "greasy" look, this type also needs the least amount of additional product to moisturize.

Type 2 - It's Wavy Baby

Type 2 hair is naturally wavy, it isn't as oily as type 1, but oil still moves more freely that 3 and 4 types. Type 2a has loose "beach" waves, this type is still loose enough that it can be weighed down by too much additional product. Type 2b hair has waves that are more clearly defined, but the hair doesn't bounce up it stays close to the head (many ladies with type 2b use a light gel to control frizz), Type 2c waves are tightly drawn and form loose spirals (this is the most frizzy of the type 2s, ladies with this hair type typically use a frizz control shampoo/conditioner as well as light styling products).

Type 3 - Curl Friend

Type 3 hair is considered curly and has the clearly defined S pattern. This type of hair tends to dry out more than the previous since the heavy oils cant make it down the shaft through all the turns and bends. Type 3a has has silky "Shirley Temple" curls (this type doesn't need much product or manipulation to be curly but can be a beast to keep straight). Type 3b hair is more spiraled and springy than 3a, this type is common amongst "mixed" individuals (this type is defined but needs styling products like creams and gels to control frizz). Type 3c curls are tighter than 3b and may clump up, but they are still clearly defined (this type also needs product to define curls and control frizz). Type 3 can be differentiated from 4 because when wet it becomes wavy or even straight.

Type 4 - Kinky, and I like it.

Type 4 hair is coily and very tightly rung. When wet it is still curly, though (depending on sub-type) the curl may be stretched or elongated. All 4 types need product to control frizz and define curl with the need growing as you go from a to c. Type 4a hair forms perfect cylindrical curls like a spring about the width of a pencil, and still falls down unlike other 4 types. Type 4b is less defined than 4a especially at the root but it has a clear defined coil at the end. Type 4c hair is the least "defined" of all the curl patterns because it is so tightly bound together (this type of hair is most prone to "shrinkage" and can be 75% longer when wet than dry, it is also the most difficult to keep moisturized as oil has a very hard time making through the kinks and bends. This type of hair also is the most prone to breakage as each bend is a weak spot in the hair.

Most black women have 3b-4c type hair.

Porosity

Porosity is literally defined as the state or quality of being porous. In hair, porosity is how well you hair can absorb and retain moisture. A single hair strand of hair is made up of three layers, the medulla (soft center), the cortex (the main part that holds keratin and pigment) and the cuticle (the outer layer made up of layered flat cells, like shingles on a roof). If the cells of the cuticle are tight and close together the hair is less porous and considered low porosity. If the cells are lose and spacious the hair is more porous or high porosity.

To test it, take a strand of clean hair and put it in a glass of water. If it floats on top your hair is low porosity, if it sinks to the bottom it is high porosity, and if it floats somewhere in between then your hair is medium porosity.

Low porosity

Do you feel like it takes your hair forever to actually get wet? Like water just kind of runs off it before it seeps in? And then does it take even longer to dry than it did to get wet? Then you likely have low porosity hair. Low porosity hair has cuticles that are tight together, so moisture doesn't permeate very well. The upside to this is that your hair retains moisture really well, the downside is that it doesn't take to outside moisture very well. Products that you use might simply sit on the hair without actually penetrating.

If you have a 1a-3a hair type low porosity can be great because your hair retains moisture and looks shiny and healthy. The downside to this combination is that you will have to shampoo your hair more frequently than others to avoid oily, greasy hair.

If you have type 3b-4c hair then low porosity can be troublesome since oils from the scalp have a hard time making it down the shaft and your hair doesn't take to outside moisture well.

According to Carol's Daughter, people with low porosity type hair should look for more alkaline (ph higher than 7) products, as these help to lift the cuticle. They should look for products containing glycerin, or do baking soda treatments (like the Cherry Lola treatment). People with low porosity hair should also avoid oils as oils act as a sealant for the cuticles further preventing moisture from getting in. They also recommend using steam to help lift the cuticles.

High porosity

Do you find that your hair absorbs product well, and dries faster than others? Then you likely have high porosity hair. In high porosity hair the cuticles are widely spaced out and lifted, so moisture can easily permeate from the cuticle to the cortex. The upside to this is that water and products can easily get through, the downside is that the hair does not easily retain moisture because moisture easily escapes. High porosity can be genetic, or it could also be a sign of damage. As we chemically process our hair over time the cuticles tend to lift and separate.

According to Carol's Daughter, people with this type of hair should opt for thick butters and products with oils that will help seal the cuticle. They should also go for more acidic (ph less than 7) products that will help tighten the cuticle. Protein treatments can also help temporarily patch gaps. If the hair is porous due to over treatment then it is also a good idea to focus on the health of your newly growing hair and get regular trims.

Diameter

Hair can also be classified by the width of the strand itself. If your hair is fine than it is about the same thickness as a sheet of paper or less (not to be confused with thin hair which refers to the number of strands you have per square inch). If your hair is a little thicker than a piece of paper, but not as thick as 2 pieces it would be considered medium. If your hair is thicker than 2 pieces of paper you have coarse hair (again not to be confused with thick hair as that just means you have more strands per square inch).

Knowing the diameter of your hair helps you understand its volume needs. If you hair is fine you may need volumizing products to achieve a fuller look. If it is coarse you'll likely want to avoid these products. Understanding diameter also helps you understand how much manipulation your hair can handle. If your hair is coarse you can handle much more manipulation, and can wear protective styles longer than those with fine hair.

Density

Hair density refers to the number of strands per square inch, and is classified as either thin (or low), medium or thick (high). Let your dry hair hang lose (as possible) if you can easily see your scalp without parting or moving hair you have low density or thin hair. If you can see your scalp with gentle movement you have medium density hair. If you have to part your hair before seeing scalp you have thick or high density hair.

Love your crown

Getting to know your natural hair can be daunting and down right discouraging, but it doesn't have to be. It is important to remember that with so many different possible combinations, what works for one YouTube natural may not work for you. That's ok, your hair is uniquely you. A person with fine 4c high porosity hair may need to avoid heat, seal their hair with oil and use low ph products; while a person with thick 4c low porosity hair may need to use heat to help moisture seep in, use baking soda to lift the cuticles and use high ph products. To the naked eye their hair could look identical but have completely opposite care needs. Everything ain't for everybody.

Homework

Get to know your texture. Search the internet for a hair type chart and find the texture you feel most closely resembles your own. Look at 3 different charts so that you have a better understanding. BONUS: Buy at least one hair product geared towards your texture or look up a YouTuber with the same texture hair as your own.
Get to know your porosity. After washing your hair pluck a single strand and put it in a glass of water. If the hair sinks to the bottom it is high porosity (It immediately absorbed the water). If it floats you have medium porosity hair (It absorbed the water but held its own). If it floats at the top then your hair is low porosity (the water couldn't get break though so your hair floats like an inner tube). BONUS: But a product or tool geared toward your specific porosity.
Get to know your hair diameter and density. For diameter you can take a strand in your finger tips; if you can't feel it then the strand is fine, if you can barely feel it medium, and if it feels thick and strong it is coarse. For density you can look in the mirror and do the scalp method previously discussed or you can measure your ponytail. If your ponytail is less than 2 inches thick you have thin hair, if it is 4 or more inches it is considered thick. Bonus: Search the internet for a hairstyle that is best for your diameter and density!

EXTRA CREDIT: Recharge your crown. Be intentional about setting aside a certain amount of time for your hair. During this time do what is best for your specific hair type, and shower it with love and appreciation. Thank it for being what it is while you cleanse or massage oils into it or whatever you do. It can be as little as 1 minute a day, or you can do it once or a few times a week, or you can do it once a month OR a combination of any of the above. The more love you show your hair the less bad hair days you'll have.

Shop for tools to help you recharge your crown at Marie's Market.

Stay in touch! Share your progress with me on Instagram, Facebook, and Twitter @Mariesmonologue use #MariesMonologue or #MMReclaimingmycrown. I'll share my favorite post throughout the week so that we can all encourage and motivate each other